Selinda Camp - November 2009

Weather
October was hot and dry, with a maximum temperatutre (in open sun) of 44°C (111°F), and we're hoping for the rains to come soon.

Wildlife
The great thing about the heat is that it makes for excellent game viewing in the Selinda Concession! Big numbers of elephant, buffalo, kudu and other general game gathered along the spillway every day, making it a wonderful welcoming sight for guests arriving from the airstrip on transfer to Selinda Camp. It makes them think that Selinda is magic, and that our animals perform on cue.

The only disadvantage to the heat is that it has dried up all the water which connected the Spillway, which had flooded two months ago, to the main channel from the western side.

The African wild dog in our concession are doing well, but they lost three puppies to predators. It's always sad to lose young even though it's all part of the natural cycle. When the dogs had their pups about two months ago there were ten of them, a few weeks later we counted nine, and then they moved north of the Selinda Concession for a week and when we saw them again there were only eight pups. We were told by another camp that hyaena killed one while the wild dog were trying to defend a kill. As of today there are only seven pups, and we hope they grow quickly so they can defend themselves and run as fast as the rest of the pack.

Fishing
One of the activities on offer at Selinda is fishing - something that's always popular with our guests. There are lots of tilapia bream and other species in season at the moment. We adhere to a strict "catch and release", except on the rare occasion when we serve freshwater fish for dinner - a real treat for everyone.

Botswana Safaris to Selinda Camp in the Selinda Spillway

Ongava Tented Camp - November 2009

Weather
The rains were expected to start in full swing but have so far stayed away - much to the delight of all the guests, as this ensured a wonderful month for game viewing.

The rains are not all bad though. They mean seeing fewer animals, but they also mean the landscape slowly transforms into a vision of green with flowers slowly blossoming. The rain provides the animals with much-needed respite and somehow evens the playing field for the antelope as they do not always have to go the waterholes where they are more likely to be preyed upon. Once the rains start the guiding becomes more difficult as the Ongava terrain becomes harder to traverse. A few flat tyres will undoubtedly add to the adventure of it all!

Wildlife
November is usually the last month where game viewing can be described as prolific, with much rain expected from December onwards. A prolific month it has been though, with a number of great sightings reported from guests and guides alike.

There have been numerous occasions where lion, white rhino and black rhino have been seen... all on one game drive! Cheetah have also been spotted on the odd occasion, although this is quite a rare sighting.

Another rare sighting this month has been a caracal. This cat must surely rate as one of the most beautiful cats around with its exquisite facial markings and delightful ears. Although it is a very widespread cat - ranging from the Middle East to Southern Africa - it is a special sight in the wild, especially considering its nocturnal nature.

It's not all about the big animals at Ongava Tented Camp however - sightings of chameleons while driving back to camp in the dark are becoming one of our specialities!

Namibia Safaris to Ongava Tented Camp in Etosha National Park

Skeleton Coast Camp - November 2009

"To know even one life has breathed easier because you have lived, that is to have succeeded." Ralph Waldo Emerson

Weather
Summer is here in full force! Although the evenings and mornings are still chilly enough to wear a jersey, the days are warm, sunny and very enjoyable - especially after all the cold and misty months we had.

We had our first proper rainfall this month. It was incredible to lie in bed and listen to the sounds of rumbling thunder coming closer and closer, with the ocean crashing in the background. It's a very nice way to fall asleep.

Waking up to an overcast sky, the fresh smell of rain and a wet ground is amazing to experience in a dry environment like this. It is an early Christmas present for the plants and animals, big and small - we all know how scarce water is here and how necessary it is for survival.

Wildlife
Wildlife conservation has always been one of the most important aspects of what Wilderness Safaris does, and this month at Skeleton Coast Camp we had an enormous challenge. Dr Flip Stander, a highly respected conservationist who has been studying desert-adapted lion since 1984, has been back in the area since the beginning of October and has been working very hard to keep the Hoarusib lions out of trouble and out of harm's way. Things started taking a turn for the worst, and drastic times called for drastic measures.

The lions' home range is west of Puros in the Hoarusib River. There has always been a lot of game in the river, like gemsbok, springbok and zebra, but early rains in the area caused the game to move out of the river onto the nearby plains. This gave the lions limited hunting opportunities and they started moving towards Puros in search of food. This was bad news for both the local community and the lions.

Because there was very little food available, the lions started killing livestock and donkeys, which are easy prey for them. This caused major havoc within the community.

It was decided that something had to be done before the lions killed more livestock, and were in turn killed. A decision was made to translocate the lions to Sarusas Springs in the Khumib River, within our Skeleton Coast Concession. The idea was to try and break the lions' habit of going to Puros in search of easy prey, and to encourage them to move back to their home range and explore the different terrain outside the river where there is sufficient natural prey for them. Plans were made quickly and with the help of various people things started working out in our favour and operation "save the lions" was under way.

Logistically only two lions could be moved at a time. So, mission number one, the translocation of one adult female and her cub to Sarusas Springs, started on the evening of the 9th. All went well and the lions were recovering well by the following morning. The adult moved towards the coast during the morning while her cub, the young female, stayed at the Springs.

Mission two - the translocation of the big male and one adult female - was carried out on the evening of the 10th. This was no easy task as our anaesthetics were running out and the new batch would only arrive the following day. Nevertheless the lions were darted, loaded and transported to Sarusas Springs. Now, to be totally honest, when you are sitting in a car with a big male lion that weighs about 200kg (440 lbs) and his paws are as big as your head, you are thinking only one thing - "how fast could I jump out of the window?" Both lions recovered well and were reunited with the female that had wandered to the coast. (The lionesses are sisters.) Tears were brought to many eyes as seeing such love between animals is breathtaking.

To our surprise, as we were sitting watching the translocated lions, the camp radioed to tell us that there were tracks of a lion moving through the camp and upriver. We immediately knew it was the young female cub as she was not there when we arrived to offload the other two lions. The search for her began in earnest as we were very concerned - she is too young to be on her own and cannot hunt for herself yet. After tracking her for 22km (14 miles) we found her, but in the heat of the day it was difficult to get close enough to dart her as she was lying in a cliff. Our patience finally paid off in the late afternoon, and the cub was darted and reunited with the rest of her family at Sarusas Springs.

On the 12th the new batch of anaesthetics arrived and we could finally start the third mission - the translocation of the two large male cubs. They were darted early in the evening and were taken to the traditional Himba village and into the Puros community, so that they could see and feel the lions, which was a first for many of the people.

Plans were made for the lions to be taken to camp so that data could be recorded and the lions could be brand marked. Guests had a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to study, touch and smell the lions. Some were even treated to listening to their hearts beating. Once all the data recording was finished, the lions were loaded and taken to Sarusas Springs, where they were finally reunited with the rest of the pride. For all of us involved this meant SUCCESS.

The lions stayed at the springs for about two days before they started moving back towards the Hoarusib River. They were observed and monitored close to Leylandsdrift where they tried hunting. Unfortunately there was very little for them to hunt - so they hadn't eaten for four days, and out of desperation and hunger they started moving towards Puros. This was not part of the plan! But lions do have minds of their own.

A barricade of vehicles and bonfires was constructed where the Hoarusib Canyon meets the Puros Plains to prevent the lions from moving into the community area. But one of the lionesses outsmarted us and somehow managed to get into Puros where we were certain she would kill livestock. She was tracked and found about two kilometres north of the traditional Himba village. Flip stayed with her the rest of the day and by early evening she was darted and loaded into the conservancy vehicle. It was decided that she should be moved to the Hoarusib River mouth where there is plenty of prey. So the long drive was made down to the mouth of the river. Luckily she did not kill any livestock while she was in the village - this could have proved fatal for her as the community cannot tolerate any more loss.

The blockade at the entrance of the canyon continued for five consecutive nights, which prevented the rest of the lions from entering Puros. Eventually, after not eating for almost ten days, the lions decided to move west and away from Puros, and a gemsbok was killed! The very hungry lions finally ate.

In the past week, the lions have tried to move back to Puros once, but were unsuccessful as the Puros lion officers were right there at the barrier, forcing the animals to turn back.

While this operation is probably not the most ideal solution to the problem, it was the only choice at this time. We were desperate that no lions should be shot as problem animals, and that no more livestock be lost. We had to act fast, and learn quickly from our mistakes. We wouldn't usually interfere with the natural course of events, but the conflict between human beings and animals means that sometimes difficult choices need to be made.

Guest Comments
- "FANTASTIC!" - PM
- "One of the most amazing places I have ever been, a truly unspoilt wilderness. I hope you all have many years to continue all your excellent conservation work" - LG and PvdB
- "OUTSTANDING! Thanks to all staff for an unforgettable experience. This is a very special place"
- "This is such an amazing place. We are so glad to have seen it and enjoyed it. It's truly unique and special. Thanks" - KF and RF
- "Africa remains my favourite continent and Namibia my favourite country, and within Namibia now the Skeleton Coast my favourite destination. I will be back and soon!" - BB

Camp Staff
One of our housekeepers, Berlinda, gave birth to a beautifull baby boy. Congratulations!
Managers: Willie, Monica & Neil
Guides: Gert, Kallie & Elaine

Namibia Safaris to the Skeleton Coast Camp on the Skeleton Coast

Unusual Creatures excel at Pafuri

Sighting: Unusual Creatures excel at Pafuri
Location: Pafuri Camp, Makuleke Concession, Kruger National Park
Date: 30 November 2009
Observer: Russel Friedman
Photos: Russel Friedman

One of the joys of Pafuri Camp in the Makuleke Concession in far northern Kruger is its unparalleled biodiversity. It simply has no equal in the greater Kruger National Park. Of course everyone wants to see the 'big and hairy' and this is why the 'Big Five' concept (out-dated as it is) is so firmly entrenched in South African ecotourism. When you have guests who have been there, done that and got the safari t-shirt however, as we did on a recent trip to Pafuri, it can really open up a whole world of interest.

We saw lion, buffalo and elephant of course and a wealth of other large mammals, but it was the recent arrival of the summer rains that really brought some of the more interesting denizens out into the open. Some sunned themselves, others simply tried to dry off, a few were investigating feeding opportunities and others were perhaps stimulated out of torpor by the arrival of the summer precipitation.

Shortly after leaving camp en route to Lanner Gorge we saw a yellow-spotted rock dassie sunning himself on a rocky outcrop adjacent to the Luvuvhu River. This species is the less common of the two rock dassies in South Africa and does occur too much further south of Pafuri.

Our next surprise was an unusually confiding Giant Plated Lizard that peered out at us from some rocks as we climbed towards Lanner Gorge. At the gorge viewpoint itself we had great fun photographing a diminutive rock elephant shrew whose snout bristled and quivered at the scents on the clean air.

Our experience was not over yet though and before reaching camp that evening, we stopped at a favourite fishing spot on the Luvuvhu River for Pel's Fishing Owl. We were fortunate enough to find a single bird and to spend some time photographing it before heading back for dinner!

South African Safaris to Pafuri Camp in the Kruger National Park

Summer rains arrive at Pafuri

After a long and increasingly hot dry season, the rains finally arrived at Pafuri about 10 days ago. All of the hundreds of head of game - elephant, buffalo, zebra, kudu, impala, nyala, waterbuck and others - that had been crowding the banks of the Luvuvhu River now have other options to slake their thirst and are glorying in a new period of abundance.

For one old buffalo bull, well known to camp staff, it was just too late. He dragged himself from his habitual wallow on the river's edge and expired on the bank opposite camp, even the crocodiles seemingly respecting his dignity and not feeding on the carcass. These ancient aquatic reptiles killed an nyala instead and fed on this in front of camp.

For those who survived the dry season, the rewards have been tangible. The impala ewes have all given birth and are suckling tiny lambs, the birds have been re-energised by the rains and of course species like the cuckoos and coucals are calling madly, trying to attract mates and take advantage of the food availability at this time of the year. Others, like the Little Bee-eater pictured opposite, simply waited out the showers, looking bedraggled and miserable.

The rain has of course stimulated plenty of amorous attention and male rivalry as well, both of which are clearly depicted in the photos at left where a male and female Spotted Bush Snake were seen 'lovingly' intertwined, and also in two male Red-billed Buffalo-Weavers who took out their frustrations on each other while trying to impress a mate or three.

Story and images courtesy of Russel Friedman.

South African Safaris to Pafuri Camp in the Kruger National Park

Doro Nawas Camp - November 2009

Weather
It has been a very warm month, with the maximum temperatures reaching 43° C (110° F)! The evenings always cool down nicely though, to a very enjoyable 18°C (65°F). We almost had a few drops of drain, but then it went away again, so we didn't get to see (or smell) the drops falling onto the dry Damaraland soil. We are hoping that it will rain properly soon.

Wildlife
This was a very successful month for tracking the desert-adapted elephant. We spotted both Oscar and the Rosie Group, which is mostly settled in the Huab River and feeding on the pods of the ana tree.

About two years ago, the Doro !Nawas Conservancy introduced a number of red hartebeest to the area, and their numbers have been growing steadily. Staff at Doro Nawas Camp had great sightings of the introducted antelope from the veranda in the early mornings. These beautiful creatures seem to have made their home about two kilometres from camp.

We had some special and rare sightings this month: Michael, one of the new guides at Doro Nawas, was very lucky to spot giraffe on his way to Twyfelfontein on an afternoon game drive. The guests knew how rare this was, and were very excited to spot these graceful giants in the area.

Richardt, one of our newly promoted guides, spotted two cheetah on one of the elephant afternoon game drives, which made all the guests extremely happy.

Just as the sun was setting, Coenie, our Camp Manager, spotted the two cheetah crossing the road in front of the camp, while he was on his way back from one of the local villages. This is really a very rare sighting as cheetah don't normally come close to places where there are a lot of vehicles and people, so we were very pleased to see them that close to camp!

Guest Comments
- "My Nature Drive with Michael (Guide) - he's the best. Pamela, Shelvia and Danize were extremely friendly, efficient and kind" - DP
- "We saw the "Oscar Desert Elephant Group". That was really a highlight for us. Thanks, Arthur! Thanks for everything. Now I know why my guests who stayed here come back so happy" - HK
- "We had a perfect guide - Richardt - he knows a lot about animals, is a good driver and very friendly. Shelvia and Theodore were very friendly and helpful - always a smile on their faces" - ME
- "Sleeping out under the stars was one of our highlights as well as the wonderful staff. With two punctures on our journey here, we are very grateful to Festus for checking and repairing our car. Thank you so much!" - JM

Photos
We would like to sincerely thank Jack Bonde from Belgium for the displayed images. Special thanks to Mr Bill Attwell from the UK for capturing the cheetah sighting.

Camp Staff
Coenie van Niekerk (Camp Manager)
Danize van Niekerk (Camp Manager)
Agnes Bezuidenhout (Assistant Manager)
Morien Aebes (Assistant Manager)
Steven Jones (Assistant Manager)
Arthur Bezuidenhout (Guide)
Michael Kauari (Trainee Guide)
Ignatius Khamuseb (Guide)
Richardt Orr (Trainee Guide)

African Safaris to Doro Nawas Camp in Damaraland in Namibia

Chitabe Camp - November 2009

Weather
With each shower we receive, Chitabe becomes cloaked in green while muddy pools fill up with grey water. This has created a haven for the large elephant herds passing through, as well as the big lone bulls that inhabit NG 31.

Wildlife
The wild dog pack has chosen to stay with us longer than it ever has before in the four years they have been traversing through our Chitabe Concession. Since the pack first brought their new puppies into the area at the end of August we have lost two, leaving them with a healthy 12. The pack now totals a massive 21; watching these dogs in action is an absolute thrill and a rare privilege indeed. The guests who have recently been here have been treated to some electrifying dog hunts: top speed chases through the bush that end in a marbled jumble of dogs squabbling over meat.

The dogs are tireless hunters and seem to take advantage of every opportunity to kill in order to feed their large numbers. Phinley recently came across the pack finishing off an adult impala. In no time at all they were off after an adult tsessebe, which they successfully brought down. The first rains have littered the area with impala lambs and multiple dog kills have been an almost daily occurrence. Thuso returned from a drive the other day with his eyes almost popping out of his head, as he had witnessed the pack taking down several baby impala in one drive.

One of the highlights of this month was the 5-metre python we discovered in camp! On the morning of the 11th, when everyone was ready to go on morning drive, Dawson heard what he knew to be a bushbuck distress call. He first thought was that the big male was in camp and was chasing his two young sons out of the area. When the noise continued and started to sound more like an animal's death throes, Dawson decided to investigate. He found a 5m python constricting a fully grown female bushbuck behind the Chitabe kgotla! The snake then dragged the animal by its snout to a more sheltered spot about 10m away, where it could swallow the buck in relative safety. The snake eventually swallowed the bushbuck around 8:30pm that night. There had been some debate between Dave, a guest and Dawson as to whether the snake would manage to swallow its prey, or would have to leave the animal as it was too big. Dave, you owe Dawson 10 bucks!

We were fortunate to have two very keen photographers in camp at the time and they took some very beautiful pictures. Thanks to Juliet for the photo for this newsletter.

Camp Staff News
And finally on a sad note... After 14 years of dedicated, loyal and passionate service, Newman Chuma, Chitabe and Chitabe Lediba's head guide, will be "retiring" from full time guiding. Newman was the very first person employed when the Chitabe tender was won in 1996 - so he holds a very special place in our hearts. He has been instrumental in helping build Chitabe's reputation and his charm and incredible "bush sense" are legendary.

Not only has Newman been a pillar of strength and guidance to so many staff over the years, he has been a leader in the field of guiding and a mentor to many new guides hoping to make "the wilderness" their career. Although we will be sad not to have Newman around full time, we do understand his desire to spend more time with his family and we are thrilled that he will continue to guide at Chitabe on special request. We wish Newman a very happy retirement, and hope to see him 'home' soon!

African Safaris to Chitabe Camp in the Okavango Delta in Botswana